The first full week of September promises to be a busy one!
First, The Cleveland Museum of Natural History is hosting its annual Conservation Symposium. This year’s theme is Biodiversity: Life in Balance, and boasts a lineup of excellent speakers on fascinating topics. The symposium itself takes place all day on Friday, September 7, and field trips and workshops are offered on Thursday and Saturday. Gardenopolis is particularly looking forward to the American Chestnut Workshop.
Next, on Saturday, September 8. Gardenopolis will be hosting its annual Garden Party. Look for invitation details in your email if you’re a subscriber; if you don’t subscribe check out the details on Facebook, or send an email to gardenopoliscle@gmail.com to be included.
I’ve been in the Appalachian mountains before – well, to be honest, mostly I’ve driven through. Nonetheless, It’s a place that always moves me — the way the ridges lie parallel to each other into infinity. Route 80 in Pennsylvania is one such route where you ride the old rounded mountains lengthwise the whole way, from one end of the state to the other. Those rounded mountains alternate with broad gentle valleys of farms and fields; one can imagine surviving in that pastoral land — possibly more than just surviving. Then there are the mountains one drives through in West Virginia, where, as I pass through, I always wonder – what do people DO in this land? How do they live? It’s so challenging. On route 77 you pass through a tunnel to enter into Virginia, where the land changes in subtle ways. It is a bit gentler. I expected Roan Mountain to be like that. But it’s not.
Roan Mountain is part of the Great Smoky Mountains, which are a subrange of the Blue Ridge Mountains separating North Carolina and Tennessee just north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Although I’ve been in the Blue Ridge before, and thought I knew what to expect, view wise, Roan Mountain has taken me by surprise, the very blueness, the mists, the way the clouds hang in the mountains, pulling away and then rejoining, as though they cannot bear to be separated — the way the mountains seem to breathe the very clouds into being. And, of course, in fact, they actually do. I am enchanted. Bemused. Though I still am wondering, what do people DO here?
Our first hike on Roan Mountain was a short one. My sister-in-law lives on Roan Mountain, in a house with a wrap-around porch, like so many here, and the sound of a rushing stream in the near-by woods (it’s been a record wet summer). All we had to do was keep going up on the winding, twisty road that goes past her house — on up into the Cherokee National Forest, where we parked, and hiked a short flat distance to a knob that looked north over a valley in Tennessee.
From that perspective the land looks relatively unpopulated. I have learned it isn’t. Tucked away in all that so green vegetative excess are winding roads and along those winding roads are houses sheltering under all that greenery (What do people DO here?). If one could see the houses it would seem almost suburban other than there’s a vast forest right out the back door, and probably a fast running stream, and bears come by regularly to check and raid any hanging birdfeeder. But up on top of the mountain (elevation 6,285 feet – we weren’t quite that high at the knob) you can’t see any of that. You just see trees … and mountains …. and more tree …. and more mountains …. and trees ….
We also visited the rhododendron ‘gardens’ on this first trip, growing thickly together, with White Snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) growing underneath. Altitude is the determinant for what one finds growing on the mountains. The rhododendrons grow at a high elevation in the company of Frasier firs and male ferns.
Also growing at this elevation were Witch Hobble (Viburnum lantanoides) and fothergilla. I was fascinated by what I have learned is Mountain Angelica (Angelica triquinata), which is geographically limited, growing only in (I discovered) in a limited distribution from northeast Georgia through Pennsylvania. It grows voluptuously here on the highlands and balds of Tennessee. The ones we saw at the knob were covered with flies, but were also visited by ever moving butterflies.
On another day we almost hiked up to Grassy Bald, the high point, where you can look out in every direction. We made it past Jane Bald but pooped out on the lowest slopes of Grassy Bald. The distances here, as seen by the human eye, are deceptive. That slope that looks like an easy short climb? Let’s just say you were warned. Grassy Bald is the Roan Mt. highpoint – where the native flora is the most pristine. To get to Grassy Bald you first hike up through a meadow and then pass through a dense stand of firs carpeted underneath with ferns, and come out onto the first bald – where you discover it’s just the first one. No part of this hike was level – you were either going up, or going down.
Mountain angelica was plentiful on the balds, but – strangely, there were no flies on them. We also found blueberries (tiny and tart), compact miniaturized ninebark, white achillea, goldenrod (I think) and what I am calling ‘mystery flower’ (looks a bit like a liatris – if anyone knows what it is, feel free to tell me). And bear scat.
Another hike took us to Elk River Falls, where a congregation of a dozen or more yellow Tiger Swallowtail butterflies refused to cooperate for a group photo, although a Black Swallowtail did, barely.
A hike in Roan Mountain State Park, at much, much lower elevations, brought us to hillsides of towering tulip poplars underneath which grew carpets of native wild ginger (asarum canadense) as a groundcover. I have never seen anything like it! Also growing on these hillsdes were Christmas ferns, male ferns (a dryopteris species), Doll’s Eye’s (actea), various carex species (appalachia, plantaginea, platyphylla), native bamboo (Arundinaria appalachiana), and partridge berry (Mitchella rpens), Nearest the stream were the usual late summer meadow volunteers, but also what I believe to be Indian Plaintain (Cacalia atriplicifolia). Also a charming little orange salamander. Not so different from what grows at home in northeast Ohio, but more generous.
A final outing took us to the Chihuly glass exhibit in the Biltmore gardens where strange glass plants resided among the real plants, sometimes successfully, sometimes less so, sometimes spectacularly.
I recently had the pleasure of visiting the Ohio Governor’s Residence for a tour of the house and gardens. The house is beautiful, full of Ohio furniture and handicrafts (the furniture, needlepoint, and rotating art exhibits that feature Ohio artists could be featured in their own post), but the gardens are stunning.
From the website: the Heritage Garden was first conceived in 2000 as a way to showcase Ohio’s natural history and environment to the thousands of yearly visitors to the Governor’s Residence. The garden features habitats from the five physiographic regions of Ohio. Former First Lady Hope Taft was the driving force in building the gardens (as well as stitching many of the needlepoint pieces inside the house). In my opinion, she and her team did a wonderful job of creating a welcoming garden representative of the entire state. I wanted to sit on one of the benches or swings and knit or read for several hours.
Our garden tour guide was Guy Denny, who is currently the Board President of the Ohio Natural Areas & Preserves Association (ONAPA) after leading the Ohio Division of Natural Areas and Preserves for several years. Guy worked closely with Mrs. Taft on the prairie garden (as he maintains his own prairie in Knox County), but he also shared a wealth of information about the garden in general.
The Governor’s Grove is in front of the house, where each governor since William O’Neill has planted a tree.
There’s a woodland shade garden, and a pergola with water features that provide habitat for turtles. (If you look closely in the first picture, there’s a turtle head behind the rock in the center.)
When we toured at the end of July, the prairie sunflowers were in bloom. There are several helianthus species in the garden, including the threatened Ashy sunflower (helianthus mollis).
In 2011, the Heritage Garden was designated a monarch waystation.
Towards the rear of the property, there’s a medicinal garden and a Johnny Appleseed tree.
Along the side, there’s a greenhouse and vegetable garden. There is a solar array that provides backup power to the greenhouse and carriage house.
Circling back to the house, there’s a kettle bog with cranberries and pitcher plants.
I strongly encourage readers to schedule a tour and take a Tuesday road trip to Bexley, just east of Columbus, to visit the house and gardens.
If you can’t make the trip, the Columbus Dispatch produced a video tour of the residence, available on youtube:
It has long been said that Cleveland is a city of neighborhoods. There is the Eastside / Westside dichotomy that splits Cleveland into slightly dysfunctional fraternal twins, each with its own perhaps not-so-accurate image, and then there are the pockets within – little villages, so to speak, that once were based on a specific ethnicity (like Little Italy) and have their own unique flavors. Showcasing this is one of the things that Garden Walk Cleveland does so well.
Last year Gardenopolis Cleveland visited North Collinwood, and discovered that the up-close ambience of these eastside neighborhoods close to the lake is a Year-Round-Summer-Cottage flavor. The year before that we visited West Park, the neighborhoods on the eastern perimeter of the Rocky River Gorge. This year the decision to split the Walk into two days with the gardens split one-day-only among them allowed us to take in more. On the first day we visited the Detroit Shoreway / Gordon Square Neighborhood, and on the second we visited little Italy, new to this do-it-yourself-tour this year. We hoped to visit Slavic Village also, but alas, dear readers, we are not as sprightly as we used to be, and after Little Italy we went home and took a nap.
In the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood the character of the streets can change block by block. Here is a street with modest single family homes on modest lots, but two blocks away, west of 65th street, the houses are more substantial and were intended to be more impressive. All of this is clustered around the Gordon Square Arts District, which has long been anchored by Cleveland Public Theater. The highlights here included a backyard bar designed for serious partying, a miniature backyard railroad set (that did not photograph well), a picturesque garage that once housed the vehicles of the on-site mortuary, now decorated with murals, a professionally designed backyard with a little hill for grandchildren to roll down, chickens and chicken coops, the occasional charming picket fence, various yard art, arbors inviting one to sit down under dappled light and shade, and a community orchard. We like the idea of a community orchard. Despite its proximity to the Gordon Square entertainment and commercial hub, this neighborhood feels suburban (city style, not country style).
This was in high contrast to Little Italy, which definitely possesses a more urban vibe and density – and long has, tho even more so with the University Circle development engine only a railroad track away. There is new residential and commercial construction taking place in Little Italy, too, in several locations, and property values, we were told, are skyrocketing. This provides interesting contrasts. One finds serious vegetable gardens (and fig trees) in long deep lots contrasting with lots so small and tight that anything that grows must be grown in a pot (or many, many, many pots). One can find a front yard patio graced by tables topped by bright red umbrellas, in front of a house on which the vertical pillars have daringly been painted to match: eye-catching and fun. Among all this one finds a few seriously contemporary minimalist buildings with seriously contemporary minimalist landscaping. One ingenious example of thoughtful sharing of space that stood out was a new structure side by side with an older structure, with the outdoor space designed with a shared garden and the sitting area for the older structure incorporated into the new architecture at the ground level, with a porch for the contemporary structure above. Sounds confusing but it was brilliant (as long as everyone gets along).
Most gardens on Garden Walk are not professionally designed — and that is one of the pleasures; to see at an intimate scale the quirky personality and flavor of individual gardeners. As always, we enjoyed the opportunity to see the life of these communities at a personal, individual scale.
This strange spring–just above freezing for much of April and early May and then, wham!, summer—has my back yard food forest proliferating in unexpected ways.
The big burst has been berries. Service berries, spice berries, currants, black raspberries, elderberries are almost doubling their output. I speculate that the cool-but-above-freezing weather kept early flowers at their pollen producing peak far longer than usual. The most delicate are definitely the very early spice berry blooms, which typically get frozen dead almost immediately upon opening by the next day’s cold snap.
These green berries will turn red in the fall and are great and-all-spicey cooked with apples.
Another surprise has been my pawpaws. As longtime readers of Gardenopolis Cleveland may remember, I have had to hand-pollinate the flowers to get fruit production. The pawpaw co-evolved, not with the non-native honey bee or even the native bumblebee, but with blow flies and other insects who are attracted to blooms offering the gentle smell of poop. Thus the need to get out my little water color brush and agitate pawpaw blossoms like a nectar-hungry blow fly.
But this spring’s long cool and sudden warm caught me too busy to respond. I was able to give my water color brush only a few outings. I was resigned to a lackluster harvest. And I was especially resigned to getting no harvest from branches any higher than 8 feet. I just could not bring myself to haul out a ladder—even with the above-average number of purple blooms—and go into the treetops agitating pistils and stamens with my brush.
Then the surprise: fruit that formed where it has never formed before, high up in the trees.
I can only speculate that the number of blooms reached a critical mass producing enough scent to attract blow flies.
But that leaves a question: How will I harvest them? Pawpaw harvest is almost as labor-intensive as pollination and why pawpaw production is best suited to the obsessive home gardener. Typically, I squeeze each fruit to see whether it is soft enough to ripen on its own inside on a window sill (thus avoiding competition from possums and other critters). Now I’ll have to wait until they fall.
This spring also brought an ugly surprise: the predations of the four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapus lineatus). They usually spend a short time in my garden, sucking chlorophyll, and leaving brown spots. But then they disappear. I typically ignore them and the plants resume their green growth.
I’m regretting not trying to remove them early on with organic soap.
I’m tempted to trim off the brown-speckled leaves, but am resisting that impulse for fruit-bearing plants. As shriveled and ugly as the leaves appear, they still seem to be doing their main job of producing sugars that give the plant enough strength to produce fruit. See this goji berry flower and its ragged leaves.
If I cut the leaves, I’ll eliminate the fruit!
Any similar garden experiences you have had, dear readers, with our unusual spring?
A FREE self-guided tour of Gardens in Cleveland, Ohio, July 7-8, 2018. Some new features (see below) and some favorites, too. Check it out at gardenwalkcleveland.org.
GardenWalk Cleveland has been a (nearly) annual tradition in Cleveland since 2010, when the founders of this free, self-guided celebration of this city’s neighborhoods and gardens were inspired by their experiences of the GardenWalk in Buffalo New York. After seeing the way GardenWalk Buffalo revitalized perceptions of that city from cold, drab and depressed, to vibrant and blooming, Jan Kious and Bobbi Reichtel initiated an all-volunteer effort to bring that same vitality and spirit of neighborliness to Cleveland.
GardenWalk Cleveland is an invitation to walk the city’s neighborhoods and glimpse literally hundreds of unique hidden worlds. Every gardener has a vision of their ideal place, created in partnership with art and nature. Most people love to share their proud successes, but also welcome the chance to discuss their hopes and letdowns with sympathetic fellow gardeners.
All of us co-editors at Gardenopolis.com are eager to fan out and swarm the extraordinary and quirky gardens of five neighborhoods this year. My tour last year included stunning water gardens and daylilies in West Park, and intimate, mysterious lakeside hideaways in North Collinwood. I’m looking forward to touring (and photographing) in Slavic Village, Detroit Shoreway and Little Italy this year.
This year’s Garden Walk Cleveland continues the tradition of a free, self-guided tour of selected, and possibly unfamiliar neighborhoods around the city. There are also a couple of changes, just to keep things interesting!
LITTLE ITALY is the new neighborhood on the tour. Cleveland’s distinct and varied neighborhoods are some of it’s proudest features. Little Italy has a European character, with many restaurant patios and pocket gardens on display.
SPLIT SCHEDULE! Gardens in West Park and Detroit Shoreway will be open for touring on Saturday July 7 from 10-5pm ONE DAY ONLY.The gardens of Little Italy, North Collinwood and Broadway Slavic Village will be open on Sunday July 8 from 10-5pm FOR ONE DAY only.
REFRESHMENT STATIONS for picking up map guides, raffle tickets, etc. will be at selected gardens (three in each neighborhood), where you can also get snacks and beverages. Refreshment stations are indicated in the guide with red dots, and by a colorful banner in front of the garden.
The raffle prize is a collection of garden items and gift certificates worth over $600. Tickets are one for $5, five for $20, and available at refreshment stations.
You can find the interactive garden guide and lots more information online at gardenwalkcleveland.org (click on the “Guide” button at the top of the page) or pick up your free map of the garden locations at Dave’s Supermarkets around Cleveland.
Take advantage of this open invitation to explore Cleveland’s colorful gardens and unique places – you’ll be amazed and inspired by the creativity and originality of your neighbors and fellow gardeners.
In 1970, on the eastern end of Lake County, David Leach found a perfect thirty acres on which to hybridize rhododendrons. Only a short distance from Lake Erie, this lovely garden houses many of his hybrids plus the experiments and successes of the new team, headed by Stephen Krebs, who took over after Leach died in 1998. Krebs is trying to develop resistance to fungal root rot in his hybrids.
Leach initially became well known for his knowledge and hybridizing skill with the publication of his book, Rhododendrons of the World, in 1961. He was an avid art collector and went on trips for collectors to Europe and elsewhere. He also visited the ancestral homes of his favorite rhododendrons.
The process of hybridizing involves taking pollen from a plant of interest and transferring it to another plant which is then isolated from other pollen using a bag over its flower. It can take up to 25 years from germination until possible retail success. Leach developed 80 such hybrids many of which went to market.
The property is located off of Route 528 in Madison. It includes a scenic pond which comes to full eye -popping beauty with the blooming of the yellow iris. There are test fields and greenhouses, thousands of spring flowers, wonderful flowering trees and shrubs in a woodland setting in addition to the azaleas and rhodies.
Leach left his property to Holden Arboretum in 1987. Holden members are frequently given a day in which to visit the David G. Leach Rhododendron Research Station, as it is officially called. Tours are given by knowledgeable guides. Be on the lookout next May for a date. Garden Clubs can also arrange for tours.
If you are a camera buff and like rhododendrons or azaleas, this is nirvana.
Traveling along Rt 20 from the east, on the north ridge, before leaving Ashtabula County, the first local nursery encountered was Girard’s, founded in 1946 on a sandy bluff next to the road and famous for azalea hybridizing. At the eastern edge of Lake County the intersection with County Line Road has always been a busy nursery hub. Hortons Nursery operated there for many years followed by other owners. The Ridge Manor Farm at that site is now owned by the Petitti Group. Sabo’s Woodside Nursery is across the street. Nearby in Geneva was the Joe Romeo Labor Camp where employers could find Puerto Rican workers in the 1950s and 1960s.
In Madison, Brotzman’s Nursery got their start on a small plot near Rt 20 and Hubbard Road. Later they moved to a busy nursery neighborhood closer to Lake Erie encompassing Chapel Road, Bennett Road and Dock Road. The broad areas of ‘Stafford loamy fine sand’ intermixed with Elnora soils in this level area are well-suited to nursery crops when drained and irrigated. Other nurseries who call this area home include Arcola Creek Nursery, Zupscan Nursery, Agora Gardens (a reincarnation of Mentor Rose Growers, now owned by Petitti’s), Toledo Nursery, Yokie Nursery and Byrnes Nursery. Near Haines Road on Rt 20 is an unmarked field where we remember Horton’s workers loading trucks long into the night.
Orchards, farms and nurseries shared busy North Ridge Road in Perry including Resthaven AzaleaFarm, Secor’s nursery (1924), Martin’s Nursery (1934), Molnars (1920) and West’s Orchards. Where Middle Ridge Road intersects with North Ridge is the former Champion Farm, site of the first nursery association Summer Field Day in 1972, when the farm was managed by a young Donnie Crawford. Nearby is Red Mill Farm founded by Alex Zebhazy, ‘The Hungarian Philosopher’, and now operated by Herman Losely and Son. (Zebhazy donated over $100,000 to help get the Lake County Historical Society up and running.) With 1000 acres in Lake and Ashtabula Counties, centered on Shepard Road in Perry between the Middle Ridge and South Ridge, Loselys is currently the largest nursery on the east side of Cleveland.
Horse-drawn cultivator at Loselys.
Bob Lyons, nursery icon and founder of Sunleaf Nursery (located on North Ridge Road in Madison, now operated by the Petitti Group), grew up next door to Gilson Gardens in the 1960s and raised old fashioned bleeding hearts in the muck soil below the ridge. The Square brothers, Lester and James, operated on North Ridge near the Painesville line even after construction of Rt 2 cut their nursery in half. Their old rose barn still maintains quiet witness on busy Rt 20.
Painesville, founded in 1805, was an ‘oak opening’ at the time of original European settlement, an open space in the endless woodlands extending from the east coast. Native American fire regime may have been the cause, or a patch of inhospitable glacial till. But the areas around Painesville became the epicenter of this burgeoning industry.
Storrs & Harrison Nursery began on North Ridge Road a few miles east of downtown Painesville. During their meteoric rise in the late 1800s, they developed an unbroken array of fields and facilities on both sides of Rt 20 extending all the way to Lake Erie, much of it on excellent ‘Conneaut Silt loam’. Workers arrived by rail at the ‘Nursery Stop’, children were educated at the ‘Nursery School’ (which still remains as Hale Road School), and immigrants lived nearby in tents in ‘The Italian Woods’ up until 1939. Their clock announced the hours for the nursery and nearby community; their thermometer provided official temperatures, including a dip to 33 below in the winter of 1872/73; and the Painesville Post Office was expanded to regional capacity to accommodate all the nursery commerce.
Myriad ‘lunch box nurseries’ of all sizes sprung up nearby between North Ridge Road and Madison Avenue, including LPBrick’s Nursery, Joe Sabo & Son (later Katila’s), Julius Kohankie Nursery (1913), Merrill’s Nursery, Nichol’s Nursery, Normans,Penn-Ohio Nursery (owned by the Kraynak’s of Sharon PA) Tankovich, Alva Smith’s Nursery, Riggs Nursery and Mike Sebian’s. Nearby on Fairport Nursery Road were the Collavechio’s and more of the Squares. (Giuseppe Scacciavillani immigrated from Italy to Fairport in the 1890s and Americanized his last name to Square.) Others began on Hale Road and Lane Road, including R.F.Hacker Nursery, Paul Otto Nursery (founded in 1937 but liquidated for four years in 1941 when Paul was drafted to serve in the front lines of Europe) and George Otto Nursery.
One of five brothers who entered the local industry, Henry Kohankie founded his nursery in 1903 on North Ridge Road in Painesville. Across many fields in local communities, the nursery expanded to over 1000 acres rendering it one of the largest in America. Soil diversity enabled a tremendous variety of crops for which they became famous. At his home in the ‘Cherry Hill’ area off Mentor Avenue (across from Hellriegel’s Restaurant), Henry Jr. established many rare specimen plants for display. Some of the Kohankie fields near Middle Ridge are operated to this day by Herman Losely & Son (1951). Kohankies was sold to Horton Nursery of Mentor in 1954 rendering Hortons the largest nursery in Ohio and fourth-largest in the country.
The North Ridge splits in two as it passes through Painesville, one portion continuing along Mentor Avenue and another defining the busy nursery strip of Jackson Street. The 60-acre farm belonging to JJ Harrison’s father in 1858 was on Jackson Street. Others over the years included Elmdorfs (1904), Youdath’s (1920), Joseph Martin Nursery, Kovacs Nursery, Waldorf Nursery, Ed Sabo Nursery and Lou Bartish Nursery.
Cole Nursery began in 1881 on Rt 20 in Painesville, east of the Fairgrounds and railroad tracks (later the site of Colony Lumber). The WWII years were difficult for local nurseries and Coles converted their 600-acre-operation to food production. After the war they moved to Jackson Street encompassing 238 acres on both sides of the road from Nye Road to Heisley Road. This farm was almost entirely comprised of ‘Tyner loamy sand’ on gentle slopes, excellent for nursery production when accompanied by summer irrigation. The Cole residence was located at Jackson and Heisley, as was the specialty rose nursery of Joe Kern (1941) who promoted ‘Roses of Antiquity.’
Nearby was the world-famous juggernaut Wayside Gardens, formed in 1920 by Elmer Schultz and JJ Grullemans. In 1937 Joseph Havel, salvaged an ornamental greenhouse from the George Ball estate near Gordon Park and relocated it to Havel’s Greenhouse on Mentor Avenue, where it stands today. Michael Horvath, Hungarian immigrant and former City Forester of Cleveland responsible for the Rockefeller and Wade Gardens, founded Mentor Avenue Nursery in 1921 to focus on hybrid roses. Bosley Rose Nursery began on five acres in 1928. Donewell Nursery was founded on Mentor Avenue by Joseph Kallay in 1917. Later he would secure one of the early plant patents for Blaze Rose. (There were six Kallay Brothers and they published a catalog in Hungarian for 44 years!) Other rose specialists preferred the heavier soils a short ways to the south including Wyant’s Rose Nursery (1919) and Jim Schroeder’s Mentor Rose Growers (1956).
Nothing lasts forever.
Gilson Gardens was founded on North Ridge Road in Perry in 1947, located on the site of Werner Nursery. Werner’s was founded by a Polish Immigrant around 1920. He grew lilies and perennials and one of his customers was Storrs & Harrison Nursery, a couple miles away. Werner liked to travel down Blackmore Road after work, less than a mile, and cool off in Lake Erie. One summer day he was swimming there with employees and, tragically, drowned. The nursery was abandoned for a number of years until it was purchased by Ted and Kathy Gilson and Ted’s parents, Edward and Mildred. The parents moved from South Euclid into the nursery residence while Ted and Kathy purchased a home nearby on Hale Road. They sold fruit in the roadside stand for a few years, then perennials and later nursery stock. Ted had worked for Youdath’s Nursery after returning from WW II; later he worked at Mentor Products as a machinist. Ed worked for many years at Bailey Meter Company on Cleveland’s East Side. They continued their day jobs for many years after purchasing the nursery, sometimes preparing cuttings in the morning before heading off for work, sticking them in the greenhouse after they returned in the evening. Along with nearby friends on Blackmore Road, Nicki Moretti, Moretti’s Nursery, and Charlie Beardslee, Beardslee Nursery, they specialized in ivy, pachysandra and other ground covers. (Logan Monroe, Kingwood Nursery, Madison, was another local ground cover specialist.)
The three nurserymen were personal friends and worked together to satisfy large orders. My brothers and I came along in the 1950s, along with boys in the Moretti and Beardslee families. We grew up thinking it normal that all our friends were nursery brats and that nurseries should dominate our local communities. Perry was paradise for kids back then with hundreds of acres of overgrown nursery lands where we regularly escaped all parental supervision. Our Boy Scout Troop 71 was filled with Dugans (3), Secors(2), Gilsons(3), Ottos (2), a Champion and other nursery brats. Even our scoutmaster back then was a nurseryman, Jay Kish, River Road Nursery. Nowadays we would refer to all this as an ‘Industry Cluster’, a symbiotic nexus of industry players, partners and suppliers…but back then we just called it…Perry.
With two older brothers in the nursery the tasks that fell to me were not so much difficult as mind-numbing, like dibbling tiny mollis azalea seedlings into small pots with a re-fashioned fountain pen. I invented ways to avoid work in the nursery after school, like joining the chess team and, later, majoring in English at The Ohio State University. Still, I kept drifting back to nursery employers in Columbus and Denver, so I went back to school and majored in accounting. Hah! But even that didn’t take, so my wife, Kristine, and I returned to the company in 1983 and managed it for the next thirty five years. At one point we ran two florist shops, a year-round garden center, plus a wholesale nursery with a container area and a propagation facility. We employed up to fifty seasonal workers… a total of over 750 throughout those years including many students… and made regular wholesale deliveries in our own trucks from Rochester NY to Indianapolis. (I’m not bragging, I merely seek to convey the level of our insanity…) And yet…they were fun profitable years during which we raised and fledged a pair of our own nursery brats. My father and grandfather had lengthy ‘retirements’ lasting into their eighties during which they doddered around the nursery each day (much as I do now) preparing cuttings and talking with the ladies in propagation. Kris and I have many pleasant colorful memories from a wonderful nurturing community and a vibrant industry…with few regrets. But recent years, since The Great Recession in 2008, followed by a couple brutal winters, have been difficult for local nurseries. Reaching, somehow, our 65th birthdays (and 44th anniversary!) in September 2017, we decided, with approval from the rest of the family, to close the book on Gilson Gardens. Kris works now for a florist shop in Mentor and I seek to resurrect my brief career in accounting! But we always want to stay close to our nursery roots!
The story of local nurseries is a truly American tale of family businesses and dynasties. Statistically, less than 4% of all family businesses survive into the fourth generation. Storrs & Harrison Nursery lasted almost 100 years into the WWII era when the fields north of Rt 20 were sold to the Industrial Rayon Company. Yet Harriet Storrs continued to live at the family residence on Rt 20 across from Fairport Nursery Road until 1957. Three years later upon her death a substantial fortune was donated to The Cleveland Foundation resulting in the formation of the Lake/Geauga Fund which continues important local philanthropy to this day. Wayside Gardens, with fields scattered across Eastern Lake County, succumbed in 1975, but the name was sold to George Park Seed Company in South Carolina and remains associated with high-quality mail-order offerings across the country. In addition, Dick Boonstra, former Wayside manager, formed Bluestone Perennials in Madison in 1972 which remains a national mail-order powerhouse to this day. The Kohankies sold to the Hortons, the Champion Brothers to the Zampinis, various local operations have found a home in recent years under the Petitti umbrella.
With the 1960s came the advent of ‘container growing’ and natural soils became less critical. Availability of affordable workers willing to perform the demanding work became a limiting factor on many traditional labor-intensive nursery tasks. Mega-nurseries rose in the south and west unhampered by winter cold and snow. However, an Economic Impact Survey of nurseries in Lake County performed in 2008 (funded by The Cleveland Foundation) indicated that although the remaining number of nurseries was under seventy, their combined annual sales, mostly at the wholesale level, exceeded $80 Million. Furthermore, the 1300 full-time-equivalent industry workers supported over 4500 jobs in the broader economy.
Challenges remain for local growers, but so do opportunities.
For over 160 years nursery operators have appreciated the ecologies, enterprises and hardworking individuals of Lake County…their footsteps trace a proud and productive legacy alongside the cultivated rows of flowering shrubs, shade trees and hardy perennials…their voices echo across this special and remarkable place to live, work and grow old. Thanks for taking this little nursery tour along our ridges, roads and ancient lakes. We’ve only scratched the surface!
Sources:
White, George W., Glacial Geology of Lake County, Ohio, State of Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Geological Survey, Columbus, 1980.
Ritchie, A. and Reeder, N.E., Soil Survey of Lake County, Ohio, United States Department of Agriculture Soil Conservation Service, January 1979.
Edgar, Chad, Lake County Soil and Water Conservation District, April 2018, conversation with Mark Gilson.
George ‘Josh’ Haskell, local attorney and historian.
Bob Endebrock, Ohio Department of Agriculture Nursery Inspector (retired)
James Schroeder, Mentor Rose Growers.
Perry Historical Society.
Morley Library.
Thanks to various additional sources associated with Nursery Growers of Lake County Ohio, Inc.
Photos courtesy of Perry Historical Society, NGLCO File and Mark Gilson.
Mark Gilson is a third-generation nurseryman and past-president of Nursery Growers of Lake County, Ohio. Visit: http://gilsongardens.biz/category/marks-corner/
People often ask why Lake County became such a mega-center for nurseries.
In the beginning, 1854, the first nursery resulted from the vision of one man, Jesse Storrs, who moved his family and nursery to Painesville from Cortland, New York. Four years later, he was joined by another visionary, JJ Harrison, an English immigrant, and they became partners in what would become the largest departmental nursery in the world. Transportation undoubtedly played a role in attracting Storrs to Northeastern Ohio. The railroads arrived in 1852 and connected local farmers, finally, to eastern markets. But there had to be more than transportation attracting these horticultural pioneers and the additional 200 nurseries that followed.
A study of the nursery locations in eastern Lake County reveals a ‘Nursery Belt’, three to seven miles from north to south beginning near the Lake Erie shoreline, and twenty miles wide, extending from County Line Road in Madison (a few historic nurseries were located to the east in Ashtabula County) and then westward through Mentor.
This modern member map for the local nursery association shows the concentration of nurseries in eastern Lake County.
To understand this Nursery Belt we need to look back over our geological history to the glaciers and the formation of three ancient lakes…four if we include present-day Lake Erie…from which we derive such gentle topography and such a diversity of unique productive soils.
During the most recent ‘ice age’ (known as the Wisconsin period extending from 11,000 to 100,000 years ago) Lake County was covered at least five times by glaciers, sometimes up to a mile high. Some glaciers extended well into Southern Ohio but the most recent reached only into southern Lake County. With each glacier came sand, gravel and rocks from the north. With each thawing and retreat, lakes were formed. The beaches from three of those ancient lakes gave rise to the ridges we recognize now.
Whittlesey was the highest ancient lake, 150’above current-day Lake Erie. Deposits of sand and gravel up to 20’ thick follow its irregular path from Unionville, through Madison, Perry, Painesville, and westward through Willoughby, conforming to a great extent with the current South Ridge Road (Rt 84). This ancient beach defines the southern edge of the Nursery Belt since soils beyond it generally become heavier and less hospitable. The nurseries of Wick Hathaway (1877) and Ed Wetzel (1917) were founded on South Ridge Road in Madison. Wetzel, like many others, began as a childhood worker at Storrs & Harrison Nursery at age 11. Gerard K Klyn Nursery began in 1921 on Center Street in Mentor, across from the current Mentor High School, but moved to Rt 84 in Perry in 1966. LCN began as Zampini Nursery and Champions Nursery in Perry Village but relocated to South Ridge Road in the 1980s on the site of the former Nick Mesman Nursery. These two operations continue to dominate the high ridge above the Nursery Belt.
Soils throughout the Nursery Belt were formed from glacial till then shaped and reshaped by waves and wind. Some contain abundant organic matter like the strip of black muck that runs just to the north of North Ridge. Some are more sandy, especially as they near the current lakeshore. Some have higher concentrations of clay rendering them ‘heavier’ like those in Mentor favored by the Rose Growers. The true story is this: Lake County is not just blessed with ‘good soil’…but with a unique diversity of fertile soils. A review of the soil map for the Nursery Belt reveals over 17 discrete types.
At 120’ above Lake Erie, the ancient shore of Lake Arkona defines the Middle Ridge, which follows a discontinuous line along ‘Middle Ridge Road’ in Madison and Perry, following ‘Narrows Road’ as it nears Painesville and joining with Johnnycake Ridge Road in Mentor. Early nurseries founded in Perry near ‘Middle Ridge’ included L. Green & Son (1865), Merriman Nursery (1868), Call’s Nursery (1874) Champions (1891), TB West Nursery (1893) which later became Champions, and Dugan Nurseries (1908). More recent nurseries include Maple Bend, Frank Square’s Nursery, Cottage Gardens, Don Stallard’sNursery and CM Browns(1970) in Perry; Crawfords, Turkenburg , Cass-Mill and Bluestone(1972) in Madison.
North Ridge, closest to modern Lake Erie and rising 100’ above it, conforms to Lake Warren as it winds, splits and reforms along North Ridge Road (Route 20), becoming Erie Street, Mentor Avenue and Euclid Avenue on its way to downtown Cleveland. Many still remember the Rt 20 of the 1950s prior to the interstate highway system. Trucks and cars lumbered by at all hours on their way from Buffalo to Chicago. Numerous small motels with guest cabins operated in every community along the way.
Interspersed in the traffic were tractors, farm wagons and stake-trucks, driven by Italians, Puerto Ricans, Hungarians and every other nationality as they attended to the daily demands and realities of The Nursery Capital of the World.
Well-drained soils on beach ridges and terraces throughout the area include Chenango, Chili, Conotton, Oshtemo, Otisville and Tyner, although the last four do not hold together well for digging, balling and burlapping. Poorly drained soils such as Fitchville, Stafford, Painesville and Red Hook offer better digging qualities once the fields are tiled and drained. Some areas such as Perry were originally covered with wetlands. ‘Elnora loamy fine sand’ to the north of Rt 20 in Perry is a productive nursery soil when artificially drained with tiles. The ‘Elnora’ soil is often interspersed with fast-drying ‘Colonie loamy fine sand.’ To the south of North Ridge Road local growers in Perry encounter ‘Tyner loamy sand’ on the post-glacial beach ridges. These soils are accessible to tractors and equipment early in the season but require irrigation for summer crops.
Productive ‘topsoils’ range from three to eighteen inches deep. Since topsoil can require 500 to 1000 years per inch to occur naturally, depletion of the surface levels over time is a serious concern. Fortunately, digging and shipping of balled and burlapped nursery stock depletes the topsoil very slowly over many decades. In addition, modern nurseries specializing in field-grown material employ aggressive soil re-building techniques, such as cover cropping and the introduction of fresh organic matter each season in the form of nursery compost, leaf compost from local residential neighborhoods and specially formulated ‘county compost’ from local sewage treatment plants. These materials are cultivated into the subsoil each year and provide a sustainable model for future nursery production.
Read Part 2 next week!
Sources:
White, George W., Glacial Geology of Lake County, Ohio, State of Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Geological Survey, Columbus, 1980.
Ritchie, A. and Reeder, N.E., Soil Survey of Lake County, Ohio, United States Department of Agriculture Soil Conservation Service, January 1979.
Edgar, Chad, Lake County Soil and Water Conservation District, April 2018, conversation with Mark Gilson.
George ‘Josh’ Haskell, local attorney and historian.
Bob Endebrock, Ohio Department of Agriculture Nursery Inspector (retired)
James Schroeder, Mentor Rose Growers.
Perry Historical Society.
Morley Library.
Thanks to various additional sources associated with Nursery Growers of Lake County Ohio, Inc.
Photos courtesy of Perry Historical Society, NGLCO File and Mark Gilson.
Mark Gilson is a third-generation nurseryman and past-president of Nursery Growers of Lake County, Ohio. Visit: http://gilsongardens.biz/category/marks-corner/
one of those sweeping
beautiful descriptions
of empty landscapes
where you can go
miles and miles
and never see another person
Where the cold emptiness
is still somehow beautiful
and the loneliness
feels like a prayer
But in truth
I am a city girl.
The furthest I can get
from another person is the
distance from one apartment
to another.
My moments of solitude
are snatched, secretly,
late at night in
empty train carriages,
after the shows have let out
before the drunks
have stopped drinking.
My gorgeous sunsets
are framed by the
space between buildings;
they highlight smoke stacks,
steeples, fluorescent adverts.
Sirens fill my nights
and the stars are
pale and insubstantial
against the glow of orange streetlights.
And yet there is beauty here
in this teeming mass of strangers
pressed together into an impossibly
small space.
There is a thrill of connection
in looking into brightly lit
office windows to see the workers
working late
and a strange camaraderie
in the shared detachment
found in people stuck
in long lines in grocery stores.
It is not empty here
and I am not alone,
but this landscape is
still
beautiful.
Kate is an Australian living in Berlin. She can be found at Short Stuff Stories. She publishes additional material for her supporters on Patreon.
