All posts by Tom Gibson

Book Review: Mycorrhizal Planet

by Tom Gibson

Not to put too fine a point on it, but Mycorrhizal Planet, a new book by Michael Phillips, is a true breakthrough book, one that will provide new, valuable information for every serious organic gardener.  The book describes how mycorrhizal fungi work with plant partners and gives detailed, practical information on how to maximize the power of fungi in all sorts of gardens—from backyard tomato patches to full-fledged agroforests.

The book combines a distillation of extensive scientific literature with decades of the author’s hands-on experience growing fruit and other crops. [As chance would have it, I just completed an Ohio State mycology course  last fall and wrote my class paper on Maxmizing Positive Fungal Power in the Food Forest. So I know a little of the difficult scientific terrain Phillips had to traverse.]  You would expect such a book to be densely packed, and it is. But it is also logical, good-humored, and down-to-earth, which should be more than enough to lead the committed gardener down a productive path toward a new set of best practices.

We need them.

The 20th Century produced some of the most brutal wars in history, but none so little noticed or comprehended as its War on Soil.  Some background and at least a partial explanation of why the War on Soil was so unwitting:

Soil, understood as something orders of magnitude different than mere dirt, consists of minerals, dead organic matter, and multiple living organisms that are often measured, breathtakingly, in billions per teaspoon.  Of these organisms, mycorrhizal fungi form the connective tissue on binds most plants.     Their hyphae—microscopic filaments—exude chemicals that dissolve potential food—from minerals to wood to dead insects—and then capture it by forming the equivalent of a new stomach wall around it.  See the graphic below where the red represents all the fungus’s external chemical activity. As its “stomach wall” expands, the fungus burrows its way tens of meters from its point of origin, all in the search for more food. 

Much of the food it seeks, however, is not for itself, but for its plant partners.  In return for the phosphorus, nitrogen and other elements our fungus gathers, it trades them in for plant sugars.  These provide the fungus energy to expand and capture still more plant nutrients. Put simply, mycorrhizal fungi extend the reach of plant roots by factors of 10 or more—costing the plant far less energy than if they had to expand their root system to cover the same territory.

Fungally-derived nutrients are so important to plants that they may devote one-third of all the sugars they produce to feeding fungi. It is no exaggeration to say that this trading system forms the core of life on earth.  It has been in place since both plants and fungi crawled their way out of prehistoric seas.   The relationship is so tight that mycorrhizae and plants have evolved to cooperate at the cellular level with the most prevalent mycorrhizal type—arbuscular mycorrhizae—actually penetrating the cell walls of a given plant root.   

But that’s only the beginning.  Individual fungi merge with other members of their own species to further increase their reach.  The resulting network forms microscopic highways for beneficial bacteria to travel the landscape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnsYh6511Ic And fungi emit a soil protein called glomalin which binds soil minerals and organic matter loosely together in a way that allows the overall soil complex to both breathe and retain water.  We call the resulting aggregation soil “tilth” —-the exact opposite of that gardening curse: soil compaction. 

LW
The modified dry litter waste management system uses dry available carbon materials such as chipped coconut husks and woods as bedding materials that reduces exposure of pollutants and pathogens from animal manure to ground and surface water resources.. It requires no water. Pigs are comfortable in their bedding. Pig activity turns and aerates the litter promoting decomposition of waste materials. The system allows farmers to safely manage animals while promoting a healthy and clean environment.

Surprisingly, much of this knowledge has only emerged recently.  Glomalin, for example, was identified by a U.S. Dept. of Agriculture scientist in 1996!

It is this tightly-woven mineral/fungal/plant interrelationship that 20th Century agriculture and horticulture ripped apart.  Tillage and plowing chopped up all those fungal hyphae.   Artificial fertilizers fooled plants into happily dropping their partnership with living food providers (sort of like satisfying children with a perpetual diet of macaroni and cheese!).  Disconnection from fungal partners, however, limited the availability of trace elements that fungi help scavenge.  These trace elements—molybdenum, boron, etc.–are essential to full plant health. Fungally-trapped soil carbon also disappeared.  All together, the negative cascade of disappearing nutrients left a void that growers filled with ever more fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides.  The ultimate result: ever less nutrition for both plants and their human consumers.

Phillips explains our downward agricultural slide in nuanced detail. But his greater emphasis is not on what went wrong, but how to make one’s own garden right. The three chapters (“Provisioning the Mycorrhizosphere,” “Fungal Accrual,” and “Practical Nondisturbance Techniques”) that make up the bulk of the book tell how to energize and expand fungal networks.

The committed gardener will find numerous possibilities for fungal enhancement of soil, ones that will require rereading and also rethinking of one’s approach to gardening.  Out of dozens and dozens ideas the book offers, here are a few that I’m either implementing now or plan to in the near future.

  1. Ramial wood chips.  These are wood chips made from fresh twigs and branches, the ones where a tree’s most recent growth has occurred. As one might expect, such high growth portions of the tree carry the highest concentration of nutrients—calcium, phosphorus, nitrogen, etc.  Fortunately, these young branches are often the ones professional arborists insert into their chipping machines and which they often have to pay to dispose of as landfill.  So it’s easy to persuade neighborhood tree cutters to dump a truck load.  I’ve done that and the chips have made my soil darker and richer and my plants happier. 

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
  2. Direct feeding of mycorrhizae by air-knifing holes in the soil under a tree’s drip line, then injecting (often proprietary) fungal food.  I had this done last fall to reinvigorate what my arborist diagnosed as oxygen-deprived oak trees.   The result: more vigorous-appearing oaks, but also a tripling (!) of fruit production of my pawpaw and peach trees planted under the oak’s drip line.
  3. Planting of what Phillips calls “bridge trees.”  These are trees planted specifically to connect more of the separate fungal pathways of a given orchard or food forest and thus, as fungal networks tend to do, share nutrients to those plants which need them most.  Fruit trees typically work with arbuscular mycorrhizal partners, while oaks, maple and hickory work with ectomycorrhizal partners. Typically those two groups of fungi don’t “talk.” But a few tree species—willows, poplars, alders—partner happily bridge with both fungal communication gap. Within a broader landscape, they and their fungal partners open the possibility of tapping a much wider nutrient pool.  So I’ve begun to encourage alders—already self-seeding to some extent in my food forest—by planting more in strategic locations.

As readers can now gather, Phillips goes into considerable detail.  Yet what makes the appearance of this book especially exciting is how readable  the author is able to make it.

A typical passage will begin close to the “duh” level of simplicity; e.g. “Mycorrhizal fungi are the principal means plants have for obtaining phosphorus…the middle letter in NPK as represented by those three omnipresent numbers on a bag of fertilizer.”  But then Phillips escalates quickly into a discussion of slow- vs. fast-release phosphorus and the relative “cost” to the plant of exuding organic acids to feed phosphorous-gathering fungi.  Similarly, when Phillips must dip into scientific language—like “anastomosis,” the merging of separate fungi—he always defines it in understandable terms.

So, readable, yes, but also dense and complex.

Did I mention that this book is for gardening nerds?

My Wife No Longer Sneers at Fuki

By Tom Gibson 

My wife no longer sneers at fuki.  Fuki, also known as giant butterbur, is a vegetable, much prized by Japanese cooks in spring for its tender celery-like stalks.
The simplest way to cook them is to steam, lightly peel, and then stir fry them with sesame oil. For me a passable side dish; for my wife not at all!

That’s unfortunate since I like giving space to fuki in my permaculture garden: a) it grows in damp, dark shade—a rarity among edible perennials and b) its broad leaves are striking and attractive and add an equally rare aesthetic dimension to permaculture.

The lack of household interest in fuki had me contemplating possible replacements. But the gift of a new cookbook (from my wife, who hasn’t given up yet on me and my experiments) has changed my mind.  It’s Food From Your Forest Garden: How to Harvest, Cook, and Preserve Produce From Your Forest Garden, by the English Food Forest guru Martin Crawford and Caroline Aitken, who describes herself as an “eco-cook.” (https://www.amazon.com/Food-Your-Forest-Garden-Preserve/dp/0857841122

We’ve tried three recipes from the book for several perennial vegetables so far; all are uncomplicated and tasty to make. They are also often exceptionally creative.  Who, for example, would have thought of combining fuki, carrots and the juice and zest of an orange?  Cooked together until the mixture carmelizes, the combination leads to a subtle result that my wife states “is good enough to serve to company.”

We also liked Crawford and Aitken’s approach to fiddlehead ostrich ferns.

They fry them in a simple batter and dip them in a yogurt sauce with parsley (we substituted lovage), capers and lemon juice. Very satisfying.  The sweetness of the young fiddleheads comes through even set against the tangy sauce.

Finally, we tried Crawford and Aitken’s approach to ground nuts (apios americana, not to be confused with peanuts). 

On their own, ground nuts have an engaging potato-legume-like taste. But the tubers’ high density diminishes their appeal. Cooked plain groundnut slices have a hard time absorbing even the most basic complementary flavors (even salt!). And chewing on the slices can seem a little cardboard-y.  Crawford  and Aitken solve the problem by grating their groundnuts and combining them with sweet Bermuda onion, egg, and flour. The result is a juicy, crunchy groundnut “burger.” Very, very good.

The book covers a wide range of perennial vegetables and fruit—nettles, skirret, quince, Turkish rocket, goji berries, etc. It thereby overcomes one of the key barriers to growing sustainable, earth-friendly edibles: their often total unfamiliarity. Why risk growing something when you may have to wait two to three years for harvestable crop without knowing if you’ll even like to eat what you grow?

The creative dishes presented by Crawford and Aitken still manage to fall within the taste-range of the normal Western diet.  Nothing strange! Food cowards need not be afraid!  The book is a worthy investment for any potential food forest gardener.

New Approaches to Creating Natural Fertility

 

Jonathan Hull, Scroll and Spade, on foliar spraying

“Performed correctly, foliar spraying can become the tipping point for improved soil health and plant productivity.”

John Wright, Red Beet Row, on feeding the soil

“Natural fertilizers are as accessible as the weeds in your yard. Combined with early cover-cropping your garden yields will improve significantly.”

Event:

8th Annual Permaculture Potluck (bring food and meet your fellow N.E. Ohio permies.)

When:

Sunday April 2, 5 to 8 P.M.

Where:

First Unitarian Church of Cleveland, 21600 Shaker Blvd., Shaker Heights, Oh.

Childcare provided, free-will offering to cover childcare, speaker and custodial costs.

Co-sponsors: First Unitarian Ministry for Earth and Green Triangle.First Call for the Permaculture Potluck

Addendum: by Elsa Johnson

  •  Whether you already know all about permaculture, or you are curious about permaculture (so much of permaculture is applicable in all or parts to almost any kind of gardening/agriculture), or maybe you just like smorgasbords of mostly vegetarian food? — this is the place to be that particular Sunday afternoon. You can schmooze, sample interesting foods, and then hang back to listen to the two speakers.

    Jonathan Hull, a former student of renowned soil biologist Elaine Ingham (your clue to know — yes…he definitely knows what he is talking about), will be familiar to Gardenopolis Cleveland readers from a series of articles posted in GC in March, a year ago, about foliar spraying: The Winds of Change. Foliar spraying (or more accurately, misting) is a technique Jonathan uses to apply nutrients directly to the above-ground structures of plants, preferably in the morning when their stomata are most open. This, he says, allows for the efficient uptake of nutrients with minimal expenditure of the plant’s energy, and stimulates the plant’s below the soil relationships, especially those with the mycorrhizal fungi that exist in symbiosis with the plant’s roots. This symbiosis is an important part of the plant’s natural pattern for health, and the less one disturbs it the better. The result? Healthier plants. More resilient soil. Fewer pests and diseases. Bigger yields. 

    The other speaker is John Wright, who is innovating directly with the soil via a fresh approach to the old technique of cover crops. John is both a permaculturist and an OSU trained horticulturist. He and his wife Stephanie Blessing run the educational farm Red Beet Row in Ashtabula. John has been experimenting with timing and unusual cover crop combinations to build a full soil nutritional palette. John offers fresh insights on matching companion plants with traditional annual vegetables, like tomatoes.   

    The Potluck will be held April 2nd from 5 to 8 PM at the First Unitarian Church of Cleveland, 21600 Shaker Boulevard, which is just east of Warrensville Center Road. The church is a large New England style steepled church, and is very hard to miss. Parking is in the rear by the Permaculture Garden.

    What to bring: Food – always a good idea to label ingredients in food brought to share. Children are welcome. There will be a free will offering to cover the cost of speakers, childcare, and custodial support.   

        

Overcoming Mushroom Timidity

by Tom Gibson

Regular readers of this blog will have gathered that our personal Cleveland Heights home landscape can be fairly characterized as “bold:” Native plants with no grass in front and permaculture Food Forest plantings in back.  Some of the latter are pretty exotic—skirret , goji berries, even the oft- discussed native pawpaws .  But in one respect, we have kept the homestead “timid:” no mushroom cultivation.

We’ve just read too many stories of mushroom “experts” making fatal or near fatal (requiring kidney or liver transplants) mistakes. So we have carefully avoided either sampling the mushrooms that regularly emerge from our heavily shaded, oak-hickory landscape and have even remained reluctant to spread the spawn of mushrooms deemed safe.

That’s changed. It all began slowly.  A Food Forest seminar several years ago at Holden Arboretum left us with one sample inoculated shitake log.

(When the shitakes finally emerged, we ate them and survived!)  Then last fall I inoculated a patch of King Stropharia spawn underneath a stand of elderberries. This fall the distinctive wine-colored mushrooms popped up.   

We ate them and survived again!

Now, though, we’re moving much faster. The proximate cause: A course I took this fall at Ohio State University (“Mycelial Lectures”) that provided a broad overview of fungi and their natural role.  As part of that course, I combed both scientific and permaculture literature to write a research paper on “Maximizing Positive Fungal Power in the Food Forest.”

Here’s what we now plan:

  • Expansion of King Stropharia plantings to front and back yards and as companion plantings to vegetables in our community garden plot.
  • Inoculation of nameko mushroom spawn to as many fresh cherry logs as possible (a dozen?) to key companion planting locations in our Food Forest.
  • Inoculation of at least a dozen logs with shitake spawn.

We also plan to harvest maitake or “hen-in-the-woods” mushrooms which have been growing wild under our very noses for years without our knowing what they were.  

At this point the mushroom-savvy reader will no doubt want to place a hand on her forehead and shake her head in dismay.   What to us looked like ugly gray-brown eruptions on oak stumps are, in fact, widely sought-after delicacies!

Here’s what I learned from the course and elsewhere that has transformed my thinking:

  1. Of the 17 mushroom poisoning deaths reported annually on average in the U.S., 16 are due to the Angel of Death (amanita bisporigera) mushroom, which in its earliest stage looks like the edible porcini.   While other poisonous species can cause considerable damage, they tend to look quite different than the ones I plan to eat.  (Even the nameko,  which the very unwary might confuse with galerina marginata, is distinguished by clear identification points.  Or at least that’s what the literature says. Hmmmm… After looking at these pictures, I’m going to have study this further!)
  2. Fungal variety contributes to plant variety and productivity. (The reverse probably works, too, with plant variety contributing to fungal variety. But that point is, surprisingly, subject to hot scientific debate.) Most garden fungi are invisible to the naked eye, but are essential to the survival of most plants. They have co-evolved over millions of years to provide auxiliary root systems with special capabilities for scavenging hard-to-access elements such as phosphorous. This much I already knew. 

But what I learned in the course was how multiple combinations of fungal strains can lead to greater plant productivity.  Six fungal strains may contribute more together to a given plant than any one strain alone.  Moreover, plants select which fungi do the best job of providing them nutrients and reward them accordingly with more sugars.  (Lots of chemical intelligence in the soil that we’re just beginning to understand!)

  1. Study of fungal/plant interactions still leaves enormous gaps.  There is a tremendous amount no one knows for sure.  But intriguing companion planting anecdotes abound.  David and Kristin Sewak, the market gardeners who wrote the mushroom neophyte’s book Mycelial Mayhem, say, for example, that King Stropharia mushrooms thrive in the shade of tomato plants and stop late season tomato blight. I plan to copy their method in my community garden plot.  And the mushroom blog Radical Mycology reports that nameko mushrooms have a near miraculous effect on both growth and fruiting of neighboring woody perennials .  Thus my interest in namekos for my own Food Forest.
  1. The number one predictor of fungal species variety worldwide is precipitation. The lesson for the gardener is to never ever, ever let your landscape dry out: swales, mulch, watering—whatever it takes.   You experienced gardeners know that already, of course, but understanding one of the key “whys” reinforces motivation.
  1. The best way to ensure the productivity of most edible mushrooms—i.e., in the phylum known as basidiomycota, including the mushrooms you see pictured in this article and the puffballs below—is to have an adequate supply of calcium in the soil.   (I’m not sure yet what “adequate” entails, but I’ve been adding gypsum or calcium sulfate to support fruit set in my mini-orchard anyway, so I’m reassured.)

Longer term:

If fungal variety is so great for gardens, why not find a way to introduce more? Here systemic knowledge is also lacking.  Once established, many fungi are powerfully resistant to colonization by competitors. Yet some fungi valuable to humans and gardens alike, like King Stropharia, are known to spread aggressively.  Wouldn’t it be great to have the tools to perform a nuanced analysis of existing fungal populations and an equally nuanced set of guidelines for introducing sustainable populations of beneficial fungi to the soil? Maybe in 10-20 years….

And what about endophytic fungi?  This is a class of fungi about which I previously knew nothing. These are microscopic fungi that live within plant tissues, sometimes mutualistically, not as parasites.  Scientists have known about these fungi for over a century, but new tools for computerized genetic analysis have revealed their overwhelming numbers and variety. Many actually help their plant hosts either grow or ward off disease. Most plants acquire these fungi “horizontally,” the same way we catch flu. Studies have shown that suburban trees harbor fewer of these potentially valuable endophytes than the same tree species growing in native forests.  Could we make up that deficit in our gardens with foliar sprays of beneficial fungi?  Once again, maybe in 10 to 20 years.

Assuming that I continue to avoid eating toxic mushrooms, I’ll let you know then!

Pawpaw Update

by Tom Gibson

When last I left you, dear gardener reader, http://www.gardenopoliscleveland.org/2016/06/taking-a-swing-at-pawpaws/, my five bearing pawpaw trees were carrying about 20 fruit each.  Just as important, they had held their fruit despite several vigorous spring showers. This was in contrast to the year before when storms knocked all but four of my baby fruitlets to the ground.  In the intervening period I had added gypsum (calcium sulfate) as a way to encourage fruit set while preserving the acidic soil pH pawpaws prefer. In other words, I tried to toughen my little guys up to face whatever the increasingly extreme Northeast Ohio weather had to offer.

This is what they look like when very young and vulnerable:

pawpaw-fruitlets

So did they make it?  Yes, big time!

They even withstood one of the most extreme weather events of the year: the so-called “microburst” of this past August. This storm hit a relatively small, 20-block area in my Cleveland Heights neighborhood that brought down numerous trees—including several on my street:The storm struck in the early evening, but an inspection the next morning showed that all my well-staked pawpaws had survived:

saved-pawpaws

After that it was “wait and feel.” My particular pawpaw cultivars don’t change color much—maybe a little yellow here and there—when they ripen. So, like a nurse taking my patients’ pulse, the best way to gauge ripeness is to take a morning squeeze of each pawpaw.  If they begin to soften, I wait a day or so for more softening, then bring them inside to fully ripen.

I’d leave the fruit on the tree longer except for some mammalian competition.  Raccoon?  Opossum? Something was coming through every night and sampling at least one pawpaw:

no-good-pawpaw

In the end, we harvested about 80 pawpaws.  They lined our window sills:

pawpaw-ripening

A pawpaw is best when it feels squishy soft.  That means its pulp is nice and custardy inside.  You can eat them as is for dessert:

pawpaw-for-dessert

Or combine them in smoothies with sour blackberries:

pawpaw-smoothie

But we also put the pulp into freezer bags, two cups to a bag, for use in baking:

more-preparing

Pawpaws add texture, flavor (banana/mango/nutmeg), and aroma to a lot of great baked goods:

pawpaw-pudding

 

Deer Antler Anguish (Or how half a solution can fail much more than no solution at all)

by Tom Gibson

Like most suburban gardeners, I do regular battle with deer.  Over the years I have gradually substituted vegetables deer don’t like (e.g. garlic) for ones they do (e.g. tomatoes).  I have fenced in young saplings whose tender shoots deer have eaten into the ground.  (My young plum tree survived somehow and re-emerged with spreading multiple branches of the type I wanted to cultivate anyway!).  And I jerry-rigged a six foot fence in attempt to block casual walk-throughs.

The latter was my undoing and, far more, that of two full-antlered bucks two weeks ago. For them it was probably the worst experience of their otherwise way too comfortable suburban lives.

The problem was the fence: a combination of wire and fishing line.  The wire was too visible to the deer and the clear plastic fishing line was too weak. The result was that the deer quickly broke through the fishing line and walked through the fence at will.

The ideal short fence, my colleague Elsa Johnson, has kept telling me, is heavy 50 lb-gauge fishing line. Because of the deer’s poor eye sight, it won’t know what’s halting its progress and, confused, it will turn away in another direction.  And the sturdier heavy-gauge fishing line doesn’t break from the initial deer impact.  Installing that sturdier fishing line has been on my project list for at least a year!

But I and my deer friend pests didn’t count on the mating season and new antlers!  Two weeks ago Sunday we found two bucks who had somehow entangled  their antlers in wire fencing. A path they had trod effortlessly as bare-headed adolescents had suddenly become treacherous.  One buck, pawing nervously, was battling a single wire that still provided him a wide circumference in which to struggle.  Eventually, I was able to free it by snipping a wire (at a safe distance!)

deer-pics

The second buck had far worse problems.  It had already snared a large knit hammock in its antlers and that was getting tangled. Six hours later when we returned, it was in even worse shape. It had wrapped itself around the tree until its head abutted (in every sense) the trunk.

deer-pic-ii

Although an early morning call to the Cleveland Heights police had brought no solution, an afternoon call did. A young woman from a private animal control company under contract to the city arrived.  Calmly and professionally, she used wire clippers and a scissor to free the second buck.  The whole process took 45 minutes.

Free at last, the second buck ran off, followed by his little entourage of concerned does.

Neither buck has returned!

Damage to our yard: one black locust tree totally girdled of bark (and doomed to die) and lots of bent fence posts.  Anyone want a well-used hammock?

deer-pic-iii

Boneset Pollinator Party

by Tom Gibson

August is pollinator party time in my backyard.  Not just the steady savoring of mint by the great golden digger wasp.

great-golden-digger-wasp-11933359

Not just the business-like mining of comfrey pollen by bumblebees.

bee on comfreyAnd not just careful, trip-weary harvesting of hardy ageratum pollen by monarchs on their way south.

Monarch on hardy ageratumNo, the real disco atmosphere—one imagines a sparkling ball and an unlimited supply of rave—occurs just above my patch of boneset (Eupatorium Perfoliatum)*. Wasps (especially), bees and other insects lurch onto boneset’s little white flowerettes, hold their position for a split second, then burst off to the next plant.  They’re just so excited. And the variety! Big wasps, little wasps, bees, moths, butterflies, little flying things I don’t have a name for. Rarely do any of the feeders pay attention to their companions (though I have seen smaller, more aggressive mason wasps deliberately knock more cumbersome digger wasps off a flower).  A true feeding frenzy.

The only calm insect I observe around boneset is the occasional dragon fly, a non-pollen consumer and pure predator. It waits motionless for minutes on a garden stake and then swoops through the mayhem to gather a small insect meal.

I like insect-on-insect predation in my garden, and boneset is a great way to encourage it. In all the scientific journal articles I’ve read on the subject, boneset is at the top of the list of for attracting predators and parasitoids. (The latter lay eggs in host insects who eventually provide a greet-the-world, first meal for the hatched larvae.) The more predatory wasps and flies, the fewer insects like Japanese beetles that will eat my plants.

Boneset produces blossoms consisting of dozens of small white flowerettes (like Queen Anne’s lace, carrots, etc.) that make a good fit for wasp mouth parts. But their pollen must contain some special chemicals, too, that I haven’t seen described in any journal. Whatever they are, they drive wasps, bees and flies nuts.

Here are a few of the insects that stopped long enough for an iPhone close-up.  (I never worry about getting stung; the insects are just too intent on locating boneset pollen.)

Here’s a paper wasp:

Paper wasp

…and a carpenter bee:

carpenter bee

A soldier beetle and a black hornet.  The former eats aphids among other things and emits a poison that makes it inedible to potential predators…. like hornets. 

soldier beetle and black wasp

But what happens when a defenseless herbivore finds itself on the same flower as a hornet? The same as a zebra and a lion at the same watering hole.  Give the lion plenty of space.  I’ve seen an ailanthus web worm moth like the one in the upper right of this picture dive under a boneset bloom to escape from a wasp and hide there until danger passes. The little mason bee on the left, however, poses no such threat.

ailanthus web worm moth + mason bee

Here’s a syrphid fly, one of those parasitoid egg layers I mentioned above

Syrphid Fly

And is this a wasp or thick-headed fly?  I think the latter; the two circles on its abdomen are a possible clue. Many flies have evolved to look like more dangerous wasps.  The thick-headed fly parasitizes bumblebees.

Wasp or thick-headed fly

*Boneset gets its odd name from its use in (very) primitive folk medicine. Because boneset leaves join right through the stem (see picture below), folk healers would wrap broken bones in boneset poultices and give their patients boneset tea—all in the hopes for similar joining.

boneset leaves

What We are Eating Now: Groundnuts

American Groundnuts: Another Perennial Vegetable Worth Trying

by Tom Gibson

American groundnuts (Apios Americana) were a staple of Native American diets, particularly in New England.  Not to be confused with African groundnuts (good old “peanuts!”), Native American groundnuts grow much thicker than their African namesake.  I’ve harvested Apios Americana tubers as big as 3 inches in diameter. 

ApiosAmericana

As plants, they offer several advantages.  They’re native and all that implies for supporting native pollinators. They’re easy to plant and require no maintenance thereafter. And, they’re a legume, which means they fix and add nitrogen to your garden.  The groundnut vines emerge with the onset of hot weather in June and shoot up rapidly any near-by trellis or bush. I‘ve seen them climb 10 feet or more in a summer, and I bet they could grow taller yet.

apios-americana-31

If nothing in your seedling’s vicinity is growing higher, though, the little vines just sit there, a few inches long, and sulk.  Think of them as the very definition of a companion plant and a natural fit to permaculture gardening.

But, as is always the case with unfamiliar perennial fruits and vegetables, how the heck do you eat them? (I think harvesting and eating may be the single highest barrier to permaculture gardening—cited both by famous permaculturists like Ben Falk and Eric Toensmeier and experienced every year by unknown, everyday permaculture gardeners like me!)

It’s always best if there’s a simple, no-fuss way to eat and enjoy something new.  Fortunately, for groundnuts there is. Simply slice the tuber thinly, fry, salt, and eat. They’re better—at least to a non-fast-food addict—than French fries.  They have 3 times the protein content of potatoes and their nutty taste reflects it.

groundnut-chips

For a more complicated recipe, I plan to try this bean dip from the website hunter-angler- gardener-cook (http://honest-food.net/2014/02/13/harvesting-eating-american-groundnuts/) and designated by another name for groundnuts: “hopniss.”

groundnut-skordalia

Photo by Hank Shaw

Hopniss Skordalia

Make only enough you think you will eat in one or two sittings because hopniss tightens up a lot once you put it in the fridge. You can loosen it with a little vinegar or water, though.

Serves 4 as a dip.

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

  • 1/2 pound hopniss tubers, peeled
  • 3 to 5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup high-quality olive oil
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • Black pepper

____________

  1. Boil the hopniss tubers until they are soft enough to mash, about 35 minutes. Drain and mash roughly in the pot.
  2. While the hopniss is cooking, mash the garlic with the salt in a mortar. Add a little olive oil and mash to emulsify it. Pound in the mashed hopniss until well combined. You will notice that hopniss is more fibrous than potatoes. It’s mostly visual.
  3. Mix in the olive oil and vinegar to taste. You want a very loose mashed potato, or a nice dip consistency. If it’s too tight, add a little water. Grind black pepper over the skordalia when you are ready and serve with bread or on crackers.

Downsides? Yes, there can be, especially if, as I did, make the less-than-smart decision to plant groundnuts in among my raspberries.  I thought I’d nicely stack functions on the same piece of land—groundnuts and nitrogen production under the ground and nitrogen-hungry raspberries and fruit above.  But the groundnut tubers can be hard to extract from raspberry roots and, besides, there are those thorny canes around which to maneuver!  (The extra nitrogen, at least, contributes to solid raspberry production.)

Instead, I’ve decided to shift my planting focus to combining groundnuts and elderberry bushes. Not only do the 12 foot high elderberry bushes give Apios Americana ample room to spread, they reflect the natural growing habits of both plants.  In natural settings the two often grow together.  The elderberry roots are also easier to negotiate when digging for ground nuts.

Sourcing: I’ve had good luck with the groundnuts I’ve bought online from Oikos Tree Crops. (https://oikostreecrops.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw8da8BRDssvyH8uPEgnoSJABJmwYosPybuDNApIvKQ-x-FA2wR4fdPYWMI99YaoFKA4hIqhoCwsjw_wcB)

Taking a Swing at Pawpaws

by Tom Gibson

Growing pawpaws and, especially, getting them to fruit in quantity has been an exercise in slow motion frustration.  Each year since my 6 trees started flowering in 2010 (planted in 2008) I’ve made at least one misstep that has limited production and/or harvest.

It reminds me of a particularly agonizing game of baseball, with just one or two swings per year and never getting the bat squarely on the ball.  What follows is an account of my ups (few) and downs (many) as I try to raise a proper harvest and how (spoiler alert!) this year I may finally have hit a home run.

A good pawpaw crop is a worthy goal.  The fruit are delicious—with a taste somewhere between a banana and a mango.  They are great fresh from the tree , in smoothies , and in a whole range of desserts.  

Pawpaw-smoothie-vertical-Web jpegsi

They also contain exceptionally high levels of nutrition. (http://www.pawpaw.kysu.edu/pawpaw/cooking.htm)

They are native to North America (with custard apple relatives in Central America) and they are particularly resistant to many of the plagues of more traditional fruit, from fungi to insects to deer. (Their leaves even contain compounds that are the basis for insecticides.) Their history is particularly ancient; at one time they enjoyed a symbiotic relationship with mammoths

pawpaw mammoth

(https://www.americanforests.org/magazine/article/trees-that-miss-the-mammoths/), who ate the fruit, pooped out the seeds in a nice pile of fertilizer, and spread the trees far and wide.   In recent years, pawpaws and their consumers have benefitted from active breeding for flavor.

But they still have distinct idiosyncrasies that reflect their origins. And it’s those idiosyncrasies with which I have struggled over the past 6 years since my pawpaw trees started to flower.  Here’s my chronicle:

Year 3, 2010. I had already avoided the problem of cross-pollination by planting two distinct cultivars.  In this, I was better off than the Holden Arboretum, which planted only one set of cultivars and was puzzled when they didn’t fruit!  A huge, embarrassing swing and a miss!

But my pawpaws still weren’t fruiting.  Their pre-Columbian origins meant that they had evolved without the honey bee. Thus the pawpaws’ dark red, funereal l flowers that don’t look or smell like anything a bee would visit.  

pawpaw blossoms

Instead, its pollinators are detritus-loving beetles  and blow flies, the iridescent blue-green flies we see on dog poop.  

pawpaw beetle

pawpaw blow-fly_210x179

Clearly, my suburban Cleveland Heights yard did not contain enough dead animal waste!

Some pawpaw growers solve this problem by supplying their orchards with roadkill and dead fish  

pawpaw fish

(definitely not an approach that would have pleased my neighbors or my wife!). 

An Athens, Ohio, permaculturist runs goats through his pawpaw orchards. The goats eat grass that might compete with the pawpaws and leave behind poop.  The ingenious farmer harvests both milk and fruit. But, once again, not a Cleveland Heights solution.

So flowers, but no fruit.  In baseball terms, a called strike.

Year 4, Spring 2012. The suggested online solution for suburban pawpaw pollination is by hand. Buy the finest-haired, most delicate water color brush and gently knock pollen off one cultivar’s flower into a dish, then “paint” the pollen into the flower of another cultivar.  

Pawpaw Hand Pollination Tools-715x536

I try this, bumbling around inside one flower, knocking loose a light brown shower of particles, gathering the pollen on my brush, and bumbling around again inside the next cultivar’s flower.  I have no idea if I’m hitting the stigma, the female part of the flower, but then, in a meta sense, blow flies don’t know what they’re doing, either.

Year 4, Fall 2012. Twenty fruit have formed! Green orbs the size of mangos.  pawpaw tree

A Wooster Arboretum horticulturist tells me to wait until the pawpaws turn brown before harvesting.  So I wait. It’s early October, but still no brown, maybe a tiny suggestion of yellow.  Suddenly 4 of the fruit on one cultivar disappear.  It looks like a raccoon or a possum knew more about pawpaw ripeness than my horticulturist acquaintance.

I learn to judge ripeness by feel.  Just the right amount of softness and I can bring fruit from the other, later-maturing cultivar into the kitchen window sill for raccoon-free ripening (too early, though, and the fruit never gets ripe enough to eat!).

Nevertheless, my wife and I are excited. We love the wonderful custardy texture of a fully ripe pawpaw.  We give a few fruit away to special gardening friends. It’s almost like child birth.  I tell my grandchildren that I have become a “Pawpaw Papa!”

Of all our progeny, we managed to harvest and eat just 12 of the original 20.  In baseball terms, we’ve gotten hits, but we’ve left a lot of runners on base. We want to score more!

Years 5 and 6, 2013-2014. More fruit, require more blossoms.  But the latter seem less abundant they should be.  Eric Toensmeier, the famous permaculturist, who grows pawpaws prolifically in Massachusetts, writes that, in nature, pawpaws like to grow as understory trees next to black locusts. Presumably, pawpaws crave the nitrogen that these legume trees and their symbiotic bacteria make available to the plants around them.  Elsa Johnson, my landscape design partner and Gardenopolis Cleveland co-editor, and I get permission from the Cleveland Museum of Natural History and travel to the museum’s Ashtabula preserve where black locusts grow like weeds.  We dig up five foot-high seedlings and transplant them right behind my pawpaw trees. Just a few years later and the black locusts are taller than the 12 foot pawpaws.

IMG_2486

I also spread a wood chip mulch around the trees—both to preserve moisture (noting that pawpaws often grow in the wild along river banks) and proliferate root growth.

Finally, I add lime, since calcium is supposed to aid fruit set.

Harvests stay in the 15 to 20 fruit range. We’re winning, but not by much.

Year 7, 2015. Whatever we’ve done seems to have worked. Blossoms appear in profusion. I hand-pollinate furiously for 10 days. After a week or so, tiny fruitlets appear—200 in all!  (You’re probably beginning to notice a certain obsessiveness on my part!).  Then, disaster!  Two strong thunderstorms knock all but 4 fruitlets off the trees. My grand slam home run as essentially turned into a long out.

Later that fall, I notice that most of the lime was still in place, still undissolved.  So not much help for fruit set.  Instead, I learned in last fall’s Ohio State Soil Fertility course (http://www.gardenopoliscleveland.org/2015/12/four-permaculture-insights-from-a-soil-fertility-course/) that gypsum or calcium sulfate should have been my preferred source of calcium.  Not only do the calcium ions in gypsum dissolve rapidly, but gypsum does not raise the pH.  (Pawpaws prefer a more acidic pH of 5.5 to 7.) I spread gypsum under every tree.

Year 8, 2016 spring.  So here we are.  What do we have?  Despite 4 vigorous thunderstorms this spring, the fruit have held. I’ve got about 20 adolescent fruit per tree and they’re looking great!    Will 2016 be the Year of the Big Score?  I’ll let you know in October.

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How I Learned to Like (Though Not Love) Lush Lawns

by Tom Gibson

Lawn-stripey-1mg1

My property doesn’t have a lawn like this.  It’s all native plants and/or permaculture Food Forest.

Gibson side yard

The crowd I hang out with doesn’t much like lawns, either.  Why grow grass, my Food-Not-Lawns friends say, when you can raise and harvest your own vegetables and do your small bit toward saving the planet?

This attitude can fall a bit on the humorless, rigid side, of course.  Where are young children (e.g. my grandchildren) supposed to play catch or turn cartwheels?  Certainly not in the potato patch.

My views on lawns softened still further this spring when I had the good fortune to take an Ohio State University course in “Soil and Climate Change” with Prof. Rattan Lal.  

rattan-lal-award-476x357 (2)

Dr. Lal, winner of multiple awards, is one of this state’s great treasures—a world leader in soil science, a driving force behind the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (the organization that shared the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize with Al Gore); incoming president of the International Soil Association; and a prime source of the science behind the new Paris Climate initiative to transfer carbon out of the atmosphere into agricultural soils.  Dr. Lal’s co-teacher of this course, Dr. Berry Lyons, Director of OSU’s School of Earth Sciences, (no slouch, either), put the climate in geophysical perspective.   

berry lyons

The course is required for all graduate students in OSU’s School of Environment and Natural Resources.

So, wow, what an intellectual adventure! (and under Program 60, I could take the course for free!)

Our main task as students was to make class presentations that related our current scientific research into climate change.  Since I’m not a science graduate student—far from it!—I chose, as best I could, to evaluate other people’s research into the question of carbon capture by suburban landscapes. Plants, of course, breathe in carbon dioxide (CO₂), turn it into sugars, and send those sugars into the soil via root growth and microbial interaction.  And that holds just as true for home landscapes as it does for rain forests.

Has research advanced enough, I asked, so that we could easily estimate how much carbon each home landscape—grass, trees, perennials, etc.— captured from the atmosphere and “sequestered” (the technical term) carbon in the soil?   What if homeowners could erect a small sign in their front yards that said, “This landscape sequesters 1 ton of carbon annually?”

In other words, could homeowners consciously start measuring and saving carbon and make their own individual contribution to reducing Greenhouse Gas-induced global warming?  There’s plenty of social pressure, especially in “neatnik” suburban neighborhoods, to keep every blade of grass trimmed.  How about creating an alternative social pressure that’s aimed at saving the planet?

WARNING: TO SKIP THE “SCIENCE” SECTION YOU CAN SCROLL DOWN TO THE SECTION BELOW ON “BOTTOM LINE FOR PLANET-SAVING LAWNCARE.”

Actually, research into home landscape carbon capture and emission is extensive.  For example, a 2012 study compared a landscape with grass, two trees and six bushes….

sequest 1

…..with a landscape with less lawn, but 4 more trees and 17 more bushes…

Sequester 2

The landscape with more trees and bushes (and, of course, deeper carbon-filled roots) sequesters more carbon, but the grass roots sequester carbon, too.  According to this study, the latter landscape could sequester up to a quarter ton of carbon annually.

But there are tradeoffs, too, which other studies make clearer. What if the homeowner fertilizes the grass with artificial fertilizer?  And how about the Greenhouse Gas effect of power mowing with gasoline?

A 2013 study of home landscapes in Nashville shows some of the impact:

1.Fertilization of grass creates lots more soil organic carbon (SOC):

Sequester 3

2. But at the cost of lots fertilizer-induced emissions of nitrous oxide (N₂0), a Greenhouse Gas with almost 300 times the potency of carbon dioxide (CO₂)

sequester 4

3. Add in the effects of gasoline-powered mowers and you can see that conventional lawns emit more Greenhouse Gases (vertical axis, called CO₂ equivalents) than they sequester carbon and have a net positive Global Warming Potential (GWP):

Sequester 5

So where’s the problem and what can we do about it?

A final study sheds some light (and hope).  It looks at ornamental lawncare in San Diego and reveals the main culprit: gasoline-powered mowing.  Look for the heavy black section in the right box.  That’s how much fuel contributes to Global Warming Potential.  Without gasoline-powered mowing, lawns would capture more carbon than they and their fertilization emit.

Sequester 6

For all the research I located, I still felt I lacked complete information.  I found no similar studies that addressed organic lawncare—compost instead of artificial fertilizer, aeration that increases root growth and carbon capture, etc. Nor could I find studies that measured carbon capture in temperate food forest systems—the kind we permaculturists might construct. In short, nothing that could be reduced to a simple sign that says “This Landscape Sequesters X Amount of Carbon.”  (If any reader knows of such studies, please let me know.)

“BOTTOM LINE FOR PLANET-SAVING LAWN AND LANDSCAPE CARE.”

What does science tell you about how maintain your landscape in the most planet responsible way?  Mainly, at this point, generalities:

1.Leave your lawn clippings in your grass and make them the sole source of fertilization. (If you want more fertilizer for your lawn, use compost instead of artificial fertilizer.) What you lose in N₂O you’ll more than make up in carbon capture.

2. A hand mower is best, but if you must use a power mower, use an electric mower and contract with your utility for only renewable power (possible in Northeast Ohio, but not advertised). By the time those utility-provided electrons get to your house, they won’t know whether they were generated by coal or wind, but at least you’ll be supporting the renewable contribution to the system. Your lawn will become a net sequesterer of carbon, at least on paper, in anticipation when you’ll have your own home-generated renewable electricity.

Wind turbines farm
Wind turbines farm

3. Still, growing as many trees as possible, especially food forests, is your most responsible option.

food forest